Still on it's side.

Things are progressing on the XJS, it may not look like much, but all this underfloor work is important.
I've final coated the new floor pans after a process of red oxide primer, seam sealer then an acrylic stone guard.

I used the acrylic stone guard because I had new panels to work with, it won't go over the old tar based stone guard.
 The acrylic is a stronger product as far as abrasion resistance goes and doesn't suffer from drying out over time as the tar based stone guards do. Those of you with experience driving Jaguars in the real world will know how they like to drag the floorpans first when ground clearance gets low, I am confident that with my combination of heavy coating of acrylic stone guard, two coats of red oxide primer and the zinc coated replacement panels, my floorpans will be fine for years!
 My next step is go apply another coat or two over the existing tar gravel stop to ensure lasting corrosion and abrasion protection for another 30 years!
 An important warning here: Jaguar confirm they used asbestos fibres in their factory sound proofing/ stone guard, probably as a thickening agent. So please make as little dust as possible when removing or working with it and wear a proper mask.
After the gravel stop is on I'll bend up 4 new underfloor lines. The old ones were mangled on my car after the previous owner dragged it around on it's floorpan and they were old and rusty anyway. I'll be using Cunifer for the brake lines and plain old galvanised steel for fuel pressure and return lines, plus tank to charcoal canister vent. I also didn't like the way the stock lines ran in a few spots, than and the new engine needs the lines in different positions means it'll work out nicely bending new lines up.
 The beaver panel was annoying me as well on the car, it had a few reasonable sized dents, plus a random rust out patch right in the middle. After staring at it and thinking about it for months, I decided to cut out most of the panel and replace it.

I was pretty happy with how little rust there was in the inner beaver panel. Some time with the wire wheel and some red oxide primer sorted it out nicely. The cavity will be thoroughly rust proofed once the car is done of course.

 The beaver panel was a pretty simple shape to duplicate, it just needed a bit of a curve at the top and a 45 degree or so bend at the bottom.

Of course I couldn't help myself and splashed on some red oxide primer, yes it's galvanized sheet, but the primer makes a good surface for paint and helps hide the zinc flake pattern.

 Next installment should find the car all stone guarded and new lines made. I have to order the bits and pieces for the lines soon, now I know where they'll run.