The replacement floor panels arrived last week, so I got to work and cut the old floors out. I left the seat boxes in place by drilling out their spot welds and cutting through the floors underneath them. pretty easy work.
There was a small area on the passenger's side seat box that will be replaced, I cut that section out whilst the floor was out, much easier at that time. The section will be replaced after the floor is in.
Some photos trial fitting the floors. The support frame with casters I made is proving itself invaluable, allowing fast, easy access to all parts of the car. Floors were replaced without having to support or jack up the car at all, just sitting on the frame.
The floor replacement panels are nicely made, very accurate reproductions and in a galvanised finish. I have to repair a small section at the corner of the driver's side where the rear seat bulkhead drops down, but that side is done apart from that.
The passenger's side needs more work. The front floor around the jack point is very rusty and the impact the sill took also caused some damage, so the jack point and front wheel well bulkhead/floor transition area will be rebuilt. I'm going to delete the jack point, they are ridiculously flimsy, I'll take some photos when I have it all apart to prove my point. Basically, all the jack point consists of is the floor sheet, a double angled bracket inside and the angled filler piece in the footwell. The sill is much stronger in this area and I'll be reinforcing both sills in this area to use as jack points on my car.
I've also opened up the floor under the rear seat. I knew there was rust in there, but it's pretty easy to fix if it hasn't gone too far, all the panels in this area are either flat or have gentle curves, so it's simply a matter of cutting some well fitting cardboard patterns, transferring it to sheet and welding them in. I'll detail that in the next installment. I'll also attack the small amount of parcel shelf rust shown below as well. Again, a fairly easy repair. Both these areas rust on XJS and S1/2/3 sedans when the rear window leaks. The area below the seat rusts badly because water can get in but not out. All Jaguar had to do is use seam sealer on the floor in this area and provide a water drain hole (and seal the windscreens better!).
Some photos trial fitting the floors. The support frame with casters I made is proving itself invaluable, allowing fast, easy access to all parts of the car. Floors were replaced without having to support or jack up the car at all, just sitting on the frame.
The floor replacement panels are nicely made, very accurate reproductions and in a galvanised finish. I have to repair a small section at the corner of the driver's side where the rear seat bulkhead drops down, but that side is done apart from that.
I've also opened up the floor under the rear seat. I knew there was rust in there, but it's pretty easy to fix if it hasn't gone too far, all the panels in this area are either flat or have gentle curves, so it's simply a matter of cutting some well fitting cardboard patterns, transferring it to sheet and welding them in. I'll detail that in the next installment. I'll also attack the small amount of parcel shelf rust shown below as well. Again, a fairly easy repair. Both these areas rust on XJS and S1/2/3 sedans when the rear window leaks. The area below the seat rusts badly because water can get in but not out. All Jaguar had to do is use seam sealer on the floor in this area and provide a water drain hole (and seal the windscreens better!).
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